Western Madagascar is home to arguably the two most iconic sights in Madagascar: Avenue of the Baobabs and Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park. If your time in Madagascar allows for only one region, this is the main contender. Fortunately, the two attractions can be easily combined with an organized tour. Read on for what to expect in Madagascar’s Wild West.
Getting to Western Madagascar
The coastal town of Morondava is the gateway to Western Madagascar. It is also the only large settlement on this part of the island. Morondava itself is a decent place with some beach hotels, though the sand is nothing to write home about.
It is a long and potentially perilous journey overland to Morondava from Antananarivo. I did it via Cotisse in about 12 hours (factoring in meal stops, bathroom breaks, and a mechanical breakdown). This entailed leaving the capital in the morning and arriving in Morondava after dark. Only after doing the journey both ways, did I learn that the route can be dangerous due to armed cattle bandits (dahalo). In fact, according to some Peace Corps volunteers I met, the U.S. government prohibits volunteers from venturing to Western Madagascar for this very reason. Be sure to only attempt the journey in daylight, which necessitates getting an early (sometimes pre-dawn) start.
Flying into Morondava may be a better option for many, especially those short on time. Anyone not jonesing for multiple 10+ hour car rides (e.g., taller people) might also consider this option. Tsaradia operates regular flights between Antananarivo and Morondava. If visiting the tsingy, these rides are just preludes to further, bumpier car rides, so it’s more comfortable to avoid them.
The night I arrived in Morondava before my tsingy tour I stayed at the Eden Rock Hotel. Though basic, it is conveniently located across from the Cotisse office near the beach. Upon returning from the tsingy tour, I stayed at the relatively upscale Select Hotel next to the taxi-brousse station to catch an early van back to Antananarivo. A few of my tourmates stuck around Morondava after the tour and spent a couple days relaxing on the beach.
Visiting Avenue of the Baobabs
Avenue of the Baobabs (Allée des Baobabs in French) is the more accessible of the two sights, located about 30 minutes outside of Morondava. The “avenue” is technically a dirt road framed on either side by numerous enormous Grandidier’s baobab trees. (Do note that the avenue is an active thoroughfare, so vehicles pass through periodically!) It is on the way to Tsingy de Bemaraha and most tours make at least one stop here. The tour I joined made one stop here mid-morning on the first day and another stop at sunset on the last day.
The baobab trees form a magnificent sight, towering nearly 100 feet above the road. Indeed, there are discussions to make the avenue Madagascar’s first natural monument. I visited in the dry season (April-November), when the baobabs look like overturned trees and the bare branches resemble roots. In the wet season, the trees are green with foliage and the surrounding landscape is verdant.
Of all the places I visited in Madagascar, Avenue of the Baobabs was the only one with anything remotely resembling crowds of tourists. Rightfully so as it’s probably the most iconic image of Madagascar and an absolute must-do, especially at sunset or sunrise. Despite bordering on cliché, be sure to get that perfect shot of you standing among the baobabs (everyone else is doing it too). This is likely the picture you’ll show friends, upload to dating profiles, and look back at fondly as a souvenir.
Other Noteworthy Baobabs
Tours also tend to make stops at a couple notable baobabs not technically on the avenue. These include the baobab amoureux, two intertwined baobab trees personified as lovers, and a particularly wide baobab considered sacred by the locals. There are actually multiple intertwined baobabs in the region. My tour stopped at one on the first day and a different one on the last day. They are comparable in quality so no need for concern if one is missed. In all honesty, it will likely be a cursory stop after witnessing the majesty of the main avenue.
The wide sacred baobab, however, is quite impressive. Fenced off in a special plot, the baobab is enormous even when compared to the specimens on the avenue. Being sacred land, the baobab must be approached without shoes, heightening the spirituality of the experience. The locals claim the ants living in the plot are not aggressive, but I would recommend watching your step anyway while barefoot.
Morondava to Bekopaka
The Tsingy de Bemaraha is far trickier to reach. Given its extremely remote location, the most practical way for independent travelers to visit is by joining a group tour. This involves a bone-rattling, 7-8 hour journey north from Morondava to the village of Bekopaka in a 4WD vehicle only possible in the dry season. There are also two river crossings by barge along the way (which are rather exciting experiences in Madagascar). For the intrepid, it is also possible to organize a multi-day pirogue trip down the Manambolo River via the Manambolo Gorge terminating at Bekopaka.
Belo Tsiribihina
A lunch stop in the frontier town of Belo Tsiribihina (Belo for short) breaks the journey in half each way. Heading north from Morondava, Belo is encountered directly after the first river crossing. It appears tour companies have existing arrangements with certain hotely in town. If possible, try to ensure your tour group dines at Mad Zebu—by far the best restaurant in Belo. Dishes here come with fine dining presentation completely out of place in a town this remote. It can get busy with other travelers, so encourage your tour guide to make a reservation.
Don’t give up hope if your tour guide is initially inflexible. My tour group ate at a different hotely on the way to the tsingy. After that lackluster experience, I was able to rally the troops to demand we eat at Mad Zebu on the return journey.
Bekopaka
After a half day and another river crossing, you arrive at Bekopaka, the gateway “town” to the national park. Note that Bekopaka is less of a town and more of a village with a handful of rustic accommodation options. Here, the tour dropped each person off at their respective accommodations (booked separately from the tour, and ideally, in advance). I chose to stay at Orchidée du Bemaraha, tempted by its swimming pool. I initially booked one of the cheapest rooms with no fan or AC. However, I promptly upgraded after a rat fell from the bed net while I was shown the first room. The heat can be stifling, so getting a room with at least a fan was the right move.
Visiting Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park
Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park’s claim to fame is its otherworldly landscape of limestone pinnacles forming a “forest” of rocky needles. The park is divided into two main sections: the Great and Little Tsingy. The word “tsingy” (pronounced sing-ee) is Malagasy and translates roughly to “place where one cannot walk barefoot.” Various endemic species make their homes in this unique landscape. Despite the difficulty in getting here, this is an absolute highlight of any trip to Madagascar.
Per Malagasy law, visits to national parks require certified guides. Though this rule may seem onerous, it’s actually a blessing in disguise. It is tremendously helpful to have someone who can help point out elusive wildlife. Additionally, this arrangement supports the communities around the parks and ensures locals have a stake in conservation. Guides are friendly, professional, reasonably priced, and some do speak English.
The Great Tsingy
By far the more impressive of the two sections of the tsingy, the Great Tsingy is mandatory if you’ve come this far. Here enormous spires of gray limestone jut out of the ground up to 30-50 meters in height. It is unlike anywhere else, and despite being so remote is very well-kept and fairly straightforward to traverse.
The morning after the journey to Bekopaka, the tour picked up travelers from their respective accommodations. From Bekopaka, the drive lasts approximately 1 hour to the Great Tsingy. Upon reaching the parking area, travelers disembarked their vehicles and the group met up with their guide.
After gearing up in a harness and getting oriented, follow a short trail to the beginning of the Great Tsingy through dry forest. (Keep your eyes peeled for lemurs!) There is brief vertical climb along a via ferrata to reach the trail at the top of the rocks. Once on top, the trail among the rock pinnacles is well-maintained and generally easy to follow. Wear sturdy shoes for the climb and any potentially sharp terrain. Note that it gets quite hot on top of the tsingy due to a lack of shade and a landscape of primarily dark-colored rock—be sure to bring water!
Right: A bridge spanning a chasm between pinnacles
Hiking the Great Tsingy is a pleasant experience that takes approximately 4 hours. Factoring in the heat, it is a somewhat strenuous hike, especially the initial climb and descent. Upon concluding the hike and returning to the parking area, it’s time for lunch. My tour did not include lunch, which I did not realize until arriving at the tsingy. Your accommodation may be able to provide you a pack lunch if you order ahead of time. Otherwise, there are a couple fruit vendors by the parking lot if you forgot to pack anything.
The Little Tsingy
After lunch, the tour returns to Bekopaka. At this point my tour gave the option of returning to the accommodation or continuing on to explore the Little Tsingy. Much of the group chose to turn in, but I and a couple others chose to press on. The Little Tsingy is exactly what it sounds like: a smaller more manageable version of the Great Tsingy. It’s right next to Bekopaka and consists of a loop that takes 2 hours or less to traverse. It’s certainly not a must-see compared to its big brother, but it’s a pleasant experience, requires little additional effort, is included in the price, and is worth it to soak up a little more tsingy time. Though after a day of hiking in the heat, relaxing by the pool is also a very valid option.
Additional Points of Interest
Between Avenue of the Baobabs and Belo Tsiribihina, lies the Kirindy Private Reserve. This privately-owned tract of land boasts some of the best-preserved dry forest in Madagascar. This reserve is notable for giving visitors their best chance of viewing a fossa, Madagascar’s cat-like apex predator, in the wild. It may be possible to negotiate with your tour or driver to visit or even overnight here. The driver on my tour offered to take the group here for an additional charge, but we declined.
Practical Details
Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park is only open from April to November. The star attraction of the Great Tsingy is only open from June to November.
I visited Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park through the 3-day Tsingy Shuttle (navette in French) offered by Madagascar Touring. This included all transportation, entrance fees, a local guide, and 1 liter of water per person daily for 350,000 Ariary per person in cash (2019 price). Accommodation and meals were not included. The website can be tricky, so I recommend emailing them (well ahead of time) to confirm details and book.
Departures from Morondava generally occur on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays and require 4 or more people to register for confirmation. As an independent traveler, you may need to be flexible with your departure date to ensure enough people have booked. Otherwise, you can pay extra to compensate for fewer people.
Day 1 included the drive from Morondava to Bekopaka, stopping at Avenue of the Baobabs and Belo Tsiribihina, overnighting in Bekopaka. The second day entailed exploring the Tsingy with a second overnight in Bekopaka. Day 3 was the return journey from Bekopaka to Morondava stopping again in Belo Tsiribihina for lunch and catching sunset at Avenue of the Baobabs. Afterwards, the tour dropped off folks at their accommodations in Morondava. The map below displays the major settlements and points of interest.
Lastly, make sure to take your antimalarials and wear insect repellent! When she fell ill, one woman in my group and her companion stayed behind in a rustic clinic in Belo to seek treatment. I later heard from tourmates that she had contracted malaria (but thankfully recovered). For further tips on traveling around Madagascar safely, see here.
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